I know now that for the rest of my life, I will be trying to get back to this place as much as possible. Not necessarily Turkana, but the other parts as well that I have not yet seen. I really am beginning to fall in love with Africa. The sunrises and sunsets here are unlike any other. At the conclusion of an especially windy day, the sands are in the air and the sun lights up the sky in a crimson orange unlike anything I have ever seen. Whats more, are the rains. For the first time since we have been here, it rained and the face and mood of the environment was deeply changed. No longer was the sand whipping about in dust devils. The rich smell of earth and wood was everywhere and the cool breeze was blowing. Once the rain started it continued throughout the day, and every living thing gave off the impression of utter dependence on this process. Every insect, every bird, every plant and every tree was making the most of this brief moment of moisture. The smallest insects emerge to feed and mate while the larger ones come out to hunt feed on the smaller. The Acacia tree will bloom, if only briefly, in a small puff ball of a flower, and the landscape will become briefly green and verdant in spots, with no memory of the dry semi-desert it once was. Fortunately, we were able to go on a field trip once the rains died down, as there is a risk of flash floods and general sogginess, to collect insects and observe the Kerio delta wetlands. Once we had piled into the to small boat in the to shallow water with far to many people, we set off mud covered and happy. we saw some amazing birds and insects. In fact, some were to amazing, with comments from Dino Martins, like "see that tiny insect floating there, that's very deadly".
This ecology module which we just concluded truly was fantastic though. With Dino, we were able to study and observe some amazing interactions. The biodiversity in such a hostel environment is astounding. Within a single acacia tree, there can be a multitude of interactions taking place between ants, bees, birds and so much more. The delicate web of this environment is dependent of so many things, foremost being water. As we could clearly see, rain is treasured but scarce. All this fantastic Wonderfulness, as there is no more proper or fitting way do describe it, is continually threatened by things like dams (one is being proposed in Ethiopia which would cut off more than two thirds of the water supply to lake Turkana) and overgrazing. I hope with all my heart, as I am beginning to ask what I myself can do about it, that these harmful processes can be averted through simple education and conservation.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Another Course, Another Adventure.
Time does fly doesn't it? Nearly a month has passed since our arrival, and so much has happened as to throw ones perspective off. It goes without saying, that I continue to be amazed here. Our course with Cara and Meave came to an end today, but the amount of information that I feel I have gained is vastly, mind bogglingly huge (much like space, to qoute Douglas Adams). I feel now that I have a much greater understanding of these once distant concepts. The experience of learning here, is far removed from that back home, in the comfort of a classroom. I feel now, that I couldn't have learned this properly anywhere else. I have seen the places that many of these fossils were excavated. Our earliest ancestors and extinct contemporaries were living and breathing right beneath my feet and I have the luck of understanding and studying humanities origins through their remains.
The other day, we heard from Dr. leaky specifically on the discovery and nature of Homo erectus and the "Turkana Boy", but also on the broader subject and nature of paleoanthropology itself. He talked about all of this, all of the science and the technicalities, all of the identification and naming we carry out, is really all to better understand ourselves. What are we and how did we become that way? It is certainly a testament to our constant ability to question and learn, both from what we know to be true and what we think we know to be true. Many problems have been caused by humanity confusing one with the other. Anyway, Dr. leaky had some very interesting points to make and it was obvious that one really should listen and learn from it. As he was speaking, he mentioned once or twice the bias science can hold against certain ideas. In context, this was about human ancestors migrating out of Africa and our origins all pointing back there, which they incontrovertibly do. Still however, the outspoken denial of such an idea can become heated. When first introduced to the scientific world,an all European and all incredibly ethnocentric one at that, the idea of African human origins seemed preposterous. Even genetics points to this outward migration, in all humans. I am rambling on a bit, but I hope that the frustration is obvious. People become confortable and stuck in the idea of perminance, especially of ideas, and it is often very hard to reason otherwise.
On another note, we got to experience the discovery of what we assumed at the time was a hominid fossil with Meave yesterday. We searched around it, up and down the hill and all around looking for more pieces, but none turned up. Unfortunately, this enthusiasm may have been for naught, simply because Dr. Leaky(Richard, not Meave) is convinced it is a crocodile pelvise, not a hominid and given that he is pretty convincing when it comes to these sorts of things, it most likely is. It was disappointing, but perhaps the jurry is still out on that one, we'll see. Maybe next post well know for sure, so try not to hold on to your seats in anticipation.
The other day, we heard from Dr. leaky specifically on the discovery and nature of Homo erectus and the "Turkana Boy", but also on the broader subject and nature of paleoanthropology itself. He talked about all of this, all of the science and the technicalities, all of the identification and naming we carry out, is really all to better understand ourselves. What are we and how did we become that way? It is certainly a testament to our constant ability to question and learn, both from what we know to be true and what we think we know to be true. Many problems have been caused by humanity confusing one with the other. Anyway, Dr. leaky had some very interesting points to make and it was obvious that one really should listen and learn from it. As he was speaking, he mentioned once or twice the bias science can hold against certain ideas. In context, this was about human ancestors migrating out of Africa and our origins all pointing back there, which they incontrovertibly do. Still however, the outspoken denial of such an idea can become heated. When first introduced to the scientific world,an all European and all incredibly ethnocentric one at that, the idea of African human origins seemed preposterous. Even genetics points to this outward migration, in all humans. I am rambling on a bit, but I hope that the frustration is obvious. People become confortable and stuck in the idea of perminance, especially of ideas, and it is often very hard to reason otherwise.
On another note, we got to experience the discovery of what we assumed at the time was a hominid fossil with Meave yesterday. We searched around it, up and down the hill and all around looking for more pieces, but none turned up. Unfortunately, this enthusiasm may have been for naught, simply because Dr. Leaky(Richard, not Meave) is convinced it is a crocodile pelvise, not a hominid and given that he is pretty convincing when it comes to these sorts of things, it most likely is. It was disappointing, but perhaps the jurry is still out on that one, we'll see. Maybe next post well know for sure, so try not to hold on to your seats in anticipation.
Thursday, February 3, 2011
Lothagam, Central Island, Elia Springs and More.
Well, I can now say I've slaughtered and eaten a goat. That certainly was an experience. A lot has happened since I last posted. Unfortunately, limited computer use and unpredictable internet can cause delays, and I apologise for taking so long. In the end though I think that it becomes hard to draw ones self away from this place long enough to write.
We recently ended our geology course with Craig Feibel, coming away with enormous insight into the local geology and history. During that course, we took many fieldtrips, including a volcanic island in lake Turkana. the lake within it had the most emerald green color you could imagine, and the most salty and disgusting taste that you probubley would rather not. The point from which we left for the island is a resort called Elia springs. This was technically our day off, so we were able to kick back and relax for a bit here. Cold beers and relaxing water were memories that non of us will soon forget. It was like a little oasis on the edge of the lake, and we had a wonderful time.
At the other end of the spectrum was our overnight trip to Lothagam hill. Wonderful views were a staple and it had many. Amazing archaeology and burials were plentiful, but cold beers and water, there absolutely was not. At certain points along our trek it was if we were hiking across the Martian Tundra, with temperatures reaching at least 110. It was amazing, beautiful and deadly. I would not have given it up for the world. Maybe for a cold drink though. Sleeping out under the stars offered an incredible experience, to be sure and food and water never tasted so good as when you need it most.
Ultimately, our course came to an end, with Craig leaving and Cara Johnson coming in to take his place. In "Paleoanthropological discoveries of the Turkana basin" she and Meave leaky are teaching us about early Hominin evolution and history. So far, the courses are different, but informative and interesting. Our most recent field trip to Lothodok and Kalodirr, we searched for fossils along various rock formations. It really does put all these amazing discoveries into perspective, in that one must search in sun and heat for things that really do resemble small rocks. It can be very tedious and stressful, but always interesting for sure. If anything revolutionary turns up, then I certainly write about it. Hopefully Ill be posting again soon, so see you then!
We recently ended our geology course with Craig Feibel, coming away with enormous insight into the local geology and history. During that course, we took many fieldtrips, including a volcanic island in lake Turkana. the lake within it had the most emerald green color you could imagine, and the most salty and disgusting taste that you probubley would rather not. The point from which we left for the island is a resort called Elia springs. This was technically our day off, so we were able to kick back and relax for a bit here. Cold beers and relaxing water were memories that non of us will soon forget. It was like a little oasis on the edge of the lake, and we had a wonderful time.
At the other end of the spectrum was our overnight trip to Lothagam hill. Wonderful views were a staple and it had many. Amazing archaeology and burials were plentiful, but cold beers and water, there absolutely was not. At certain points along our trek it was if we were hiking across the Martian Tundra, with temperatures reaching at least 110. It was amazing, beautiful and deadly. I would not have given it up for the world. Maybe for a cold drink though. Sleeping out under the stars offered an incredible experience, to be sure and food and water never tasted so good as when you need it most.
Ultimately, our course came to an end, with Craig leaving and Cara Johnson coming in to take his place. In "Paleoanthropological discoveries of the Turkana basin" she and Meave leaky are teaching us about early Hominin evolution and history. So far, the courses are different, but informative and interesting. Our most recent field trip to Lothodok and Kalodirr, we searched for fossils along various rock formations. It really does put all these amazing discoveries into perspective, in that one must search in sun and heat for things that really do resemble small rocks. It can be very tedious and stressful, but always interesting for sure. If anything revolutionary turns up, then I certainly write about it. Hopefully Ill be posting again soon, so see you then!
Saturday, January 22, 2011
First few days. Amazing
Hello all. Well, here we are, at TBI Turkwel, and what an amazing place it is. This past week has gone by in a flash. It is hard to imagine that just a short time ago, I was even around snow and cold weather. Here it is hot, with the temperatures reaching one hundred ten in the daytime, and rarely dropping below the eighties at night. The temperature being what it is, its amazing the ways one finds to combat it. At some point on the first day, pretty much everyone decided to move their beds and mosquito nets outside, and so it has been since we arrived. It is simply too hot to sleep inside for most people. This unique sleeping arrangement affords us all a great view of the stars at night and of the hills in the morning. The temperature on the whole, though, is not so bad. It is certainly an adjustment, and one must drink more water than you would ever thing possible, but it really is all worth it every second we are here.
As I said before, this week since we arrived has gone by in a flash.It seems like yesterday that we arrived in this amazing place. As we arrived in Lodwar and preceded to drive out to TBI, I couldent help but be amazed with everything I saw. Around every corner, was something I had never seen before. As we left town, there began to be fewer and fewer signs of habitation, at least in the sense that westerners are used to. No concrete buildings, not even much wood. The Turkana homes, small domes and surrounding fenses made of palm frons and acacia branches, were what began to replace metel and beams. This region of northern Kenya, on the west side of lake Turkana, is a desert. Sand and acacia trees run as far as the eyes can see. To imagine living in this environment, without the amenities we have here, seems almost impossable. The only sourse of water for the people is the Turkwel river, and all of the small Turkana homes can be found close to it. Arrival at TBI was a relief, after such a long travel time, and after a few words from the proffesor and coordinators, including Richard Leaky, we settled in and relaxed. In the subsiquent days, we did many exciting things. Our hikes along the river have yealded some great fossils, human buriels, bones and stone tools. We saw cammels, scorpions, and all kinds of interesting beatles. As far as wildlife goes, however, there isn't anything much bigger than a jackel. Overfarming has reduced this landscape to the desert it is today. I was talking with Dr. Leaky about this, and he said that when he first arrived here there was grassland, giraffs and gazelle all aplenty.
The turkana people themselves are, in general, reserved but quite friendly nonetheless. Whenever we drive out in the lorry (a military transport vehicle, or essentially a big truck) children ruch out to wave and greet us. One time, we even had a group of older men in full ceramonial regalia complete with spears and headdresses, perform a dance for us as we passed through their village. Whenever we are out in the field, we always garner a following of local Turkana, entirely interested in just what exactly it is we are doing out there. They often ware these long wool blankets, which for us would seem unbaribly hot, that are reminiscent of scotish tartains. I was curious about these, and Dr. Leaky told me that when the british came over, one of the things the Turkana craved was these colorfull blankets, and they have been around ever since. They also carry around a stick reminiscent of a gun stock, which was exactly the point when they were forbidden from having guns, used as a goat crop or walking stick (Known as the Turkana Ass-kicking stick to some of us).
Over all, these past days have been a whirlwind of excitement. Everything is new and exciting, and each passing day affords us an unforgittable experience and adventure. I look forward to posting again soon. Kwa Heri!
As I said before, this week since we arrived has gone by in a flash.It seems like yesterday that we arrived in this amazing place. As we arrived in Lodwar and preceded to drive out to TBI, I couldent help but be amazed with everything I saw. Around every corner, was something I had never seen before. As we left town, there began to be fewer and fewer signs of habitation, at least in the sense that westerners are used to. No concrete buildings, not even much wood. The Turkana homes, small domes and surrounding fenses made of palm frons and acacia branches, were what began to replace metel and beams. This region of northern Kenya, on the west side of lake Turkana, is a desert. Sand and acacia trees run as far as the eyes can see. To imagine living in this environment, without the amenities we have here, seems almost impossable. The only sourse of water for the people is the Turkwel river, and all of the small Turkana homes can be found close to it. Arrival at TBI was a relief, after such a long travel time, and after a few words from the proffesor and coordinators, including Richard Leaky, we settled in and relaxed. In the subsiquent days, we did many exciting things. Our hikes along the river have yealded some great fossils, human buriels, bones and stone tools. We saw cammels, scorpions, and all kinds of interesting beatles. As far as wildlife goes, however, there isn't anything much bigger than a jackel. Overfarming has reduced this landscape to the desert it is today. I was talking with Dr. Leaky about this, and he said that when he first arrived here there was grassland, giraffs and gazelle all aplenty.
The turkana people themselves are, in general, reserved but quite friendly nonetheless. Whenever we drive out in the lorry (a military transport vehicle, or essentially a big truck) children ruch out to wave and greet us. One time, we even had a group of older men in full ceramonial regalia complete with spears and headdresses, perform a dance for us as we passed through their village. Whenever we are out in the field, we always garner a following of local Turkana, entirely interested in just what exactly it is we are doing out there. They often ware these long wool blankets, which for us would seem unbaribly hot, that are reminiscent of scotish tartains. I was curious about these, and Dr. Leaky told me that when the british came over, one of the things the Turkana craved was these colorfull blankets, and they have been around ever since. They also carry around a stick reminiscent of a gun stock, which was exactly the point when they were forbidden from having guns, used as a goat crop or walking stick (Known as the Turkana Ass-kicking stick to some of us).
Over all, these past days have been a whirlwind of excitement. Everything is new and exciting, and each passing day affords us an unforgittable experience and adventure. I look forward to posting again soon. Kwa Heri!
Friday, January 14, 2011
Introductions.
Well, here we are. First off, my name is Benjamin Smith. I am an anthropology major, a first year student at Stony Brook, part time cook and an avid explorer. Most importantly though, and more than likely the reason that you have decided to read this now, is that I will be studying abroad in northern Kenya at the Turkana Basin Institute field school. I do consider myself extremely fortunate to be able to take part in this amazing experience, and equally thrilled to be one of the people documenting it.
I came to this program partly through a profound and lifelong interest in Archaeology, but mostly through My ANT 104 class with Prof. John Shea. I was initially skeptical of studying abroad as a freshmen, but realized after a indecisive period of about four seconds, that this, and really any, international study opportunity was going to be something unforgettable and life changing. I have had the good fortune to study abroad before, but never in Africa and never with such an in depth focus of study. I believe letting oneself learn from different peoples, cultures, their present and their past, can be the most rewarding experience in life. I chose Stony Brook for two very important reasons: a wonderful anthropology department and great study abroad programs and in this one, I have found the embodiment of both. It may sound like a sales pitch, but its true.
So there you have it, and here I am, frantically getting together all these last minute tidbits, but ultimately very excited . I will be updating at least once a week so I am looking forward to what this next one will bring. Allons-y!
Monday, January 10, 2011
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